People just don't know how to ship or pack tube amps. They are heavy,
especially the Sunn stuff.  You can probably get it working before
replacing the caps. Just hook the transformers and leads back up to
where they are supposed to go. Also, if the tube sockets were damaged,
you should replace them as they will most likely start arcing if they
are chipped or cracked in any way. I think they are riveted in too, so
you would have to drill out the rivets, replace the sockets with new
ones, and then re-rivet them in again. Of course that would involve
unsoldering and resoldering all the connections to the sockets
too. Make sure to draw up a layout of how it is now before you do
that.  The best solid state rectifier to use would be the WZ34 Copper
Cap from webervst. It will plug right into the socket and is only
$20. I'm using one in my 200S because I upped the filter cap values in
the first 2 stages for more bass and the tube GZ34 can't take the
higher cap values. I went to 110uf and 100uf instead of the stock 30uf
and 20uf or whatever it is in the first two stages. Made a VERY big
difference in the bass response and the amp sounds a LOT better now
for bass. If you do this, you'll have to use series connected, lower
voltage caps and 220k 1w resistors in parallel to each cap. For the
110uf, use two 220uf 350v caps. It would also be beneficial to
rearrange the choke and drill some holes to add some turret lugs or
connectors of some sort. This way you get more room in the chassis to
use all the series connected caps, and you can still keep the layout
well arranged. I could send pics of what I did if you want? I also
added a ground buss and some other stuff, but you could get the
idea. You could also just get the exact replacement can cap from
vibroworld and triode electronics and other places, but that isn't as
good of a solution in a number of ways, probably costs more, and you
don't have as good of bass response. If you were in the Portland,
Oregon area, I could help you out.

For a 200S, I would recommend to go with JJ KT88's. They sound very
good and give vood power and last a long time.

For the rectifier tube, JJ makes a good GZ34, and the chinese one is
good too. You could also use a Weber Copper Cap WZ34 rectifier, which
is a solid state plug in replacement that emulates the sound and
function of a tube rectifier. That is what I have done in my 200S and
it works and sounds GREAT and its only $20 and will outlast me. Check
them out at www.webervst.com.

For preamp tubes, any 12ax7 should work. JJ, EI, EH, and Sovtek make
good ones. I recommend the JJ however because it will give a more
powerful and cleaner sound than the others I mentioned which suits a
bass amp better. For the driver tube, you'll need a 6AN8 most likely,
and the best to get there would be a NOS tube from Antique Electronics
Supply in Arizona. Their site is www.tubesandmore.com.

Also, if you haven't yet, it would be a good idea to replace the
electrolytic caps in your amp with new ones.

I got mine for $40 off ebay and it had some problems. I spent a couple
weeks wiring up a true ground buss and ground lift switch, replacing
all the components in the amp, and then tweaking the filter caps to
get a better bass response. I ended up with 110uf in the first cap
stage, and 50uf in the second, and a 300uf cap on the cathode of the
first preamp stage in the amp. I also have a 2000S that is bone stock,
and the 200S now sounds better than the 2000S for bass, and it also
hums a lot less because of the grounding mods I did. If you know what
you're doing, I would probably repair/mod the amp yourself and keep
it/use it for gigs.

Grounding Info:
------------------

Make sure if you go with bigger caps in the power supply that you use
a solid state rectifier replacement like a Weber Copper Cap. If you go
over 60uf in the first filter stage, the tube GZ34 will blow.

As far as grounding is concerned, the one I have came to me with a 3
prong cord already attached. If you're modding a 2 wire power cord
setup into a 3 wire, the green lug gets grounded to the chassis on its
own bolt. The fuse and switch have to be changed so that they are on
the white wire, or there could be a safety hazard. I got this info
from Dave Funk's Tube amp workbook. its a good book for beginners to
intermediates.

The other grounding mods I did to mine was to isolate all the grounds
from the chassis and wire in a ground buss, that only touches the
chassis at one point. You could make it touch at the input jacks, or
do like I did and disconnect the ground switch and use it as a ground
lift switch, and ground to the chassis at that point in the amp with a
51ohm resistor and .01uf cap like Kevin O' Connor recommends in his
books. The cap and resistor act to suppress RF frequencies. To make a
one point chassis ground system work like the true ground buss method
I used, you have to make sure all the jacks are isolated from the
chassis also.